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WoodLtdŽ Studio is
proud to announce a new line of custom teak exterior and interior
doors with solid wood artistic casing. This unique product line
combines quality materials, advanced technology, and design to
achieve a beautifully detailed and affordable door product whose
durability and longevity far surpasses any other wood doors.
Installing door casing: casing,
as the trim around doors (and windows) is called, has a strong
impact on the overall style, appearance, and proportion of an
opening as well as the overall style of your home's interior. On the
practical side, it conceals the gap between the door frame (called a
jamb) and the rough opening and helps to hold the frame in the
opening. Casing can be relatively plain, such as the popular
clamshell design or square-edge design, or detailed, such as
colonial-style molding. By far the most popular casing joint design
is the mitered picture-frame casing.
1. Remove existing casing: if you are
re-trimming an existing door, pry off the existing casing carefully
so you won't damage the wall or the doorjamb.
Tip: If a film of paint or bead of caulk bridges the joint between
the casing and the wall, cut the seal with the point of a utility
knife before attempting to pry the trim. This makes prying easier
and eliminates the chance that you will pull off some of the wall
finish or surface paper when you pry the casing.
2. Mark the reveals: the inside edge of the casing is typically
placed back from the inside edge of the jamb by about 3/16 inch. To
mark this reveal, set the blade position in a combination square so
it protrudes 3/16 inch and mark jambs at the top corners, the
midpoint of the head jamb, and several points along the side jamb.
To make the mark, position the body of the square against the face
of the jamb with the blade extending over the edge and mark at the
end of the blade.
3. Cut all miters: measure the distance between your marks on the
side jambs at the upper corners (frame opening plus 2 times the
reveal) and miter-cut your head casing at 45 degrees on both ends so
the short dimension equals your measurement. Cut miters on one end
of each piece of side casing. Remember that one will be left-handed
and one right handed.
4. Prime or stain: before you install the casing: if you intend to
paint, apply a primer, or if you plan a natural finish, apply a
stain and first topcoat. Cover the sides and both faces to seal the
wood and prevent warping. Pre-finishing is also easier than painting
in place, especially if you don't intend to paint the walls when the
installation is complete. If you stain before assembly, you also
avoid the problem of stain not taking over any glue spots at the
joints.
5. Tack head casing: lightly tack the head casing into the jamb so
it just covers your pencil marks. If the casing is being installed
on the exterior you must use weather-resistant fasteners, such as
hot-dipped galvanized nails.
6. Cut and test-fit side casings: stand
the left side casing upside down next to the left jamb with its long
side against the point of the head casing, and mark its desired
length directly. Alternatively, measure from the floor to the top
left-hand edge of the head casing and transfer that measurement to
the casing. Square-cut at your mark and test the fit.
7. Make adjustments: If the miter does not meet without a gap, which
can happen if the jamb is not square or if it sits slightly below or
above the plane of the wall, the casing miter may need re-cutting.
8. Secure casing: apply glue to the end of the side casing and
position it so it fits tightly with the head casing. (and not too
worry about lining it up with the reveal marks on the rest of the
jamb yet.) Secure it to the jamb. Position the nail about 1 inch
from the end and near the outside edge of the casing. Then secure
the inside edge of the casing to the jamb. Once the miter is tight,
continue nailing the rest of the casing. Work your way from the top
down, nailing at five equally spaced positions. Repeat for the
opposite side and then complete nailing the head casing at the two
ends and midpoint.
9. Cross-nail miters: to prevent miters from opening, drive a 4d
finishing nail through the edge of the head and side casings about
3/4 inch from the outside corner. This will lock them together.
10. Finishing touches: wipe off any excess glue immediately with a
damp cloth, drive all nail heads slightly below the surface with a
nail set and hammer, and hand-sand as needed to make casings flush
with each other and to eliminate any splinters. If you plan to
paint, fill nail holes with wood putty or acrylic caulk first; if
you will stain, fill them with colored wax putty sticks after you
complete finishing.
Casing A wooden
trim around doors that covers seam between jamb and wall. It has a
strong impact on the overall style, appearance, and proportion of
door opening as well as the overall style of your home's interior.
On the practical side, it conceals the gap between the door frame
(called a jamb) and the rough opening and helps to hold the frame in
the opening. Casing can be relatively plain such as square-edge
design or detailed, such as colonial-style, French-style,
Asian-style or Mexican-style molding
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© 2008 WoodCiti® Group Thailand 
